Driving the San Juan Skyway in fall is the best day trip you can take from Durango, and every September our guests ask us the same question at breakfast: when do the aspens turn? You can find beautiful fall foliage September through early October, and this 236-mile loop through the San Juan Mountains is the perfect way to see it. Widely considered one of the most spectacular scenic drives in Colorado, the San Juan Skyway scenic byway climbs the famous Million Dollar Highway, threads the high country from Silverton to Telluride, and rolls past gold-drenched hillsides and historic mining towns for hours. The whole loop starts and ends right here in Durango.
With so many things to do in Durango, the San Juan Scenic Byway is just one reason we love autumn here. Our favorite hikes near Durango, like the Colorado Trail at Junction Creek, put you inside those aspen groves instead of just driving past them. Durango Jeep tours for off-road adventure take you deep into the high country on old mining roads. And Durango mountain biking is legendary for good reason, with hundreds of miles of singletrack from mellow river trails to the Horse Gulch network minutes from downtown. It’s easy to spend an entire week in this area.
After a day exploring the San Juan Skyway, you’ll want to relax at the best Durango lodging. Our property sits on a private ranch just west of Durango with views of the La Plata Mountains, a spring-fed lake, and lush gardens. As Southwest Colorado’s first Bed and Breakfast, we’ve spent decades perfecting the routine our guests love: a Southwest-inspired breakfast buffet to fuel the day, then an evening back at your own cabin or cottage, many with fireplaces and whirlpool tubs for relaxation and cool mountain nights. With 14 rooms, cottages, and private cabins, it’s Durango lodging that feels like a retreat with the entire San Juan Skyway loop at your doorstep. Book your stay today!
San Juan Skyway
The San Juan Skyway is a 236-mile loop designated as an All-American Road, the highest level of scenic byway recognition the U.S. Secretary of Transportation can give, awarded in 1996. The full loop requires roughly six hours of driving without extended stops, though most visitors spend an entire day exploring the overlooks and mountain towns. Heading north from Durango on Highway 550, you’ll climb Coal Bank Pass and Molas Pass, both over 10,600 feet, with views of Pigeon and Turret Mountains and three fourteeners: Windom, Eolus, and Sunlight. In late September, the aspen groves along this stretch turn entire mountainsides gold, and the pullouts at Molas Pass are perfect for photos.
Then comes the stretch everyone talks about. From Silverton, the road becomes the Million Dollar Highway, climbing over Red Mountain Pass before clinging to the steep canyon walls of Uncompahgre Gorge as it descends into Ouray. Nobody knows for certain where the name came from, though local lore credits the construction cost, the views, or the gold ore left in the roadway fill.
The Million Dollar Highway is a serious mountain road with drop-offs lacking guardrails, so take it slow and trade drivers if you both want to enjoy the scenery. We always tell our guests to run the loop counterclockwise instead. Driving west from Durango first puts you on the inside of the steepest curves when you reach the Million Dollar Highway, with the rock wall beside you rather than the edge. Always check road conditions before you go, and remember that fall weather in the high country changes fast. Early October can mean sunshine in Durango and snow flurries at the passes.
The towns break up the drive beautifully, and each one earns a stop. Silverton’s downtown is a National Historic Landmark District, its architecture a leftover of early mining wealth, and the Old Hundred Gold Mine tour is a favorite attraction. Ouray, called the “Little Switzerland of America,” is home to Box Cañon Falls and a large natural hot springs pool. The leg from Silverton to Telluride crosses the Dallas Divide past Mount Sneffels, one of Colorado’s most iconic fall viewpoints, before dropping into the box canyon that holds Telluride, where you can ride the free gondola for aerial views of the fall colors. The return leg has quieter charms, including the galleries and studios of the Mancos Creative District, and the turnoff for Mesa Verde National Park, home to the famed cliff dwellings of the Ancestral Puebloan people.
Among the scenic drives in Colorado, the San Juan Skyway stands out for its remarkable variety, with alpine passes, Victorian mining towns, river canyons, and ranch country all within a single loop. We recommend starting early, filling the tank in Durango, packing layers because higher elevations run cool even in warm months, and not scheduling anything for the evening. You’ll want to come back, settle into your private outdoor sitting area, and watch the evening light settle across the La Plata Mountains.
Durango Lodging
A full day on the San Juan Skyway deserves an equally special place to begin and end your adventure. Our Durango lodging can help you make the most of your trip. Before you leave, the kitchen can pack you a made-to-order picnic lunch, which beats hunting for a table in Telluride at peak leaf season. When you roll back in, there are 70 acres to stretch your legs on, or skip straight to a wine and cheese platter on your private patio while the La Platas catch the last light. Every room, suite, casita, and cabin here is individually decorated, and the options range from the La Plata Vista Room with its whirlpool tub and private balcony to the Cabin on the Lake, which sleeps a full group and features three bathrooms, two fireplaces, and a complete kitchen. Bringing the dog along for leaf season? The Cottage in the Woods and the River House are both pet-friendly.
Breakfast here is a full buffet served in a dining room with views of the gardens and lake, or out on the long covered porch. Guests can choose from egg dishes, breakfast meats, homemade pastries, breads with our signature jams and honey, and homemade granola. Fill up, grab your picnic, and get an early start on the San Juan Skyway. The aspens only give you a few weeks each fall. Book your stay and come see why this loop tops every list of Colorado scenic drives!